Field notes
Blog
Trip reports, opinion pieces, food and seasonal dispatches since 2018.
April 24, 2026: Genocide Remembrance Day in Yerevan
A preview for April 24, 2026: what to expect at Tsitsernakaberd, crowd sizes, the procession, candlelight vigils, and quieter visit alternatives.
Wings of Tatev celebrates 15 years: what to know
The Wings of Tatev cable car turns 15 in October 2025. A visit report, current fares, anniversary events, and everything you need to plan your crossing.
Armenia in 2026: what's coming for travelers
February 2026 opinion piece: new direct flights, visa trends, Wings of Tatev anniversary tourism, and what this year might mean for visitors to Armenia.
Yerevan dining 2026: what's new, what's gone
An October 2025 dispatch on Yerevan's shifting dining scene: new openings, lamented closures, and the trends reshaping how the city eats.
The Transcaucasian Trail in 2025: what's now hikeable
A June 2025 update on the TCT in Armenia. About 830 km are now marked. What's open, what's coming, and how to plan your section hike.
Armenian women shaping the country's tourism
On International Women's Day 2025, a profile of the women — guides, chefs, winemakers, guesthouse owners — redefining how Armenia is visited.
New Year in Yerevan: what to expect
What New Year looks like in Yerevan: Republic Square fireworks, family traditions, the meal, what to expect January 1-7, and tips for visitors.
Vendanges in Vayots Dzor: a wine harvest dispatch
A late September 2024 dispatch from the Areni wine harvest: Hin Areni winery, Trinity Canyon, grape stomping, lavash, and brandy poured by the host.
Walking the swinging bridge of Khndzoresk in 2024
A July 2024 visit to Khndzoresk's 160-metre swinging bridge, the cave village below, and the 1.5-hour drive from Goris. Honest and practical.
The rise of Yerevan's specialty coffee scene
Yerevan's specialty coffee scene has grown rapidly. In April 2024 we visited the best cafes — Lumen, Calumet, Achajour, Bekon and others.
Five Armenian brandies you should try
From Ararat 3-star to rare aged expressions, here are five Armenian brandies that show the depth of a tradition going back to 1887.
Armenia after 2023: what changed for travelers
A November 2023 assessment. After September's Karabakh exodus, what has practically changed for tourists visiting Armenia? Less than you might think.
Eating Sevan trout (ishkhan): where & why it matters
A 2023 dispatch on ishkhan, the prized Sevan trout. It's endangered, officially banned from fishing — yet served everywhere. Here's what to know.
The southern summit of Aragats in a single day
A May 2023 day hike to the southern peak of Mount Aragats (3,879 m), starting from Lake Kari. Route, timing, weather window, and what to expect.
Skiing Tsaghkadzor: the 2023 season report
A February 2023 report from Tsaghkadzor ski resort: snow conditions, lift status, day-pass prices, and an honest look at the facilities.
Gyumri's comeback: how Armenia's 2nd city is becoming cool again
On Gyumri's quiet revival — the 1988 earthquake's long shadow, the Black Fortress, new cafés, local designers, and why it's worth more than a day trip.
Yerevan to Tbilisi by night train: a 2022 experience
A first-person account of the overnight train from Yerevan to Tbilisi in 2022 — the couchette, the 2am border crossing, and what arrives on the other side.
The Areni wine festival 2021: dispatch from the harvest
Dispatch from the Areni wine festival, October 2021 — grape stomping, Hin Areni and Trinity Canyon tastings, lavash baking, and duduk at dusk.
A summer stroll through Dilijan, the "Armenian Switzerland"
A slow summer walk through Dilijan — the restored old town, forest paths to Lake Parz, and the question of whether the Swiss comparison actually holds up.
April 24: commemorating the Armenian Genocide in Yerevan
The April 24 Genocide commemoration in Yerevan — the walk to Tsitsernakaberd, the eternal flame, and what it means to be a visitor there.
Noravank in autumn: the red cliffs at their best
A November visit to Noravank in Vayots Dzor — the red tuff cliffs, the double-stairway church, and the gorge when the tourists have gone.
Armenia reopens: what travel looked like in summer 2020
A clear-eyed dispatch from Armenia in August 2020, after the country reopened. PCR tests, empty monasteries, good hotel rates, and a strange quiet.
Khor Virap with snow & Mount Ararat in February
Khor Virap in February 2020 — snow on the Ararat plain, the mountain in perfect winter clarity, and the pit where Gregory was imprisoned.
Why Armenians celebrate Christmas on January 6
Armenian Christmas falls on January 6, not December 25. Here's why the Armenian Apostolic Church kept the original date — and what the celebration looks like.
Five things I bought at Yerevan's Vernissage flea market
An honest account of five purchases at Yerevan's Vernissage market — a Soviet enamel pin, a rug runner, a brass coffee pot, wine, and a hand-forged knife.
Summer 2019 at Lake Sevan: notes from the shore
A few days on the shore of Lake Sevan in June 2019 — the blue that photographs can't quite capture, ishkhan trout, and the monastery above the water.
Why Armenia's only pagan temple survives at Garni
The Hellenistic temple at Garni is the only pre-Christian structure still standing in Armenia. Here's the history of how it got here and why it survived.
An evening walking the Cascade in Yerevan
A slow evening walk up the Cascade stairway in Yerevan — outdoor sculptures, Botero cats, the art galleries inside, and the view at the top.
Riding the Wings of Tatev: world's longest cable car
A first-person ride report on the Wings of Tatev cable car — the world's longest non-stop reversible gondola — and what you find at the far end.
Discovering Armenia for the first time: a 2018 trip report
A first-timer's honest account of two weeks in Armenia in April 2018 — Yerevan's pink streets, Garni's pagan temple, and the Wings of Tatev.